Talking about African Ankara Fabric (Overview)

We are introducing products made using "Ankara," an African fabric sourced from Nigeria, and we would like to explain what characteristics Ankara has and how it is used locally.

Ankara is a representative African fabric, known for its vibrant colors and captivating geometric patterns.

Each piece has a unique design, and what's interesting is that even the same pattern can look completely different just by combining different colors. The charm of Ankara lies in its seemingly endless abundance of colors. From vibrant primary colors to calm neutrals, the harmony of these diverse hues is like a work of art.

In addition, the designs feature geometric patterns, animals and plants, everyday items, and other elements that each have deep meaning, and contain cultural messages that go beyond mere decoration. High-quality Ankara fabrics are resistant to fading even after repeated washing, and are durable enough to be used for a long time. The lightweight fabric is suitable for the African climate and is functional enough to keep you comfortable even on hot days.

2. Ankara's roots

Tracing Ankara's history reveals an international story.

Ankara, now beloved as "African fabric," is the product of a cultural fusion that emerged when Indonesian batik techniques met with Dutch industrial technology. From the 19th century to the early 20th century, wax-printed fabrics produced by Dutch textile companies for the Indonesian market were brought to West Africa, where they became hugely popular in Ghana and Nigeria.

The local people added their own designs and meanings to this beautiful fabric, and it eventually became an integral part of African culture.

By the way, the word "pagne" is also used, but it is used in French-speaking African countries. Nigeria is an English-speaking country, so it is rarely called pagne.

Nowadays, local production is taking place in various African countries (※), and many original designs that reflect the cultural characteristics of each country and region are being produced.

*Recently, many Chinese products have been sold on the market.

3. What is Ankara used for locally?

The most popular use of Ankara is for tailoring beautiful clothing, and as you walk around the area, you can come across a variety of Ankara-made garments.

For women, the traditional "Irobuba" style, a top and bottom set, is particularly popular among the Yoruba people and is almost always worn on special occasions such as weddings.

By the way, at weddings, it is common for the bride's best friend to coordinate her outfit with the fabric she has chosen, something called asoebi. It is also fun to coordinate it with a head wrap (gere), a decorative piece of cloth worn around the head. Costumes made from Ankara are not just everyday wear. They are considered special attire worn on important occasions in life, such as weddings, religious ceremonies, festivals, and important business meetings, and they have the power to lift the spirits of the wearer.

4. How many people are wearing it?

When I actually went to Ikeja, Lagos, to see how many people were wearing Ankara suits, I got the impression that about one in ten people was wearing an Ankara suit (this is just my personal impression, so please excuse me).

Although casual clothing such as T-shirts and pants is common in Nigeria, I was able to see how Ankara is deeply rooted in the lives of the local people. Can you imagine the difference in the proportion of people wearing kimonos compared to those in Japan?

5. Introduction to the Big Market in Lagos

The Big Market in Lagos, Nigeria's commercial city, is one of the largest trading centres in Ankara, West Africa, and is a truly spectacular sight. I was really surprised by the scale and density of people in this market. There are hundreds, even thousands, of stores lined up, and the atmosphere is vibrant from morning to night.

The market brings together fabric wholesalers, various retailers, tailors, and customers from all over the world to conduct a brisk trade.

I was amazed that even though there were so many people walking around and crowded together, nothing fell off my head (lol).

Standing here, you can feel the energy, and I highly recommend you come and see it for yourself. It will energize you.

6. Ankara for Nigerians

For Nigerians, wearing Ankara is an important way to express pride in their African roots and culture.

At international events and important occasions, people actively promote their cultural background by wearing clothes that incorporate Ankara, and it seems that Nigerians are also unique in that their origins can be identified by their clothing.

For us, kimonos are similar to custom-made suits. In fact, they have a strong connection to Japan, so I'll talk about that another time.

Representative Kaoru Tsuji