The origins of African fabrics: the history of wax printing born from the colonial era and the industrial revolution

Have you ever looked at colorful African print fabrics and wondered, "Is this really traditional African culture?" In fact, the wax prints we call "African fabrics" have an amazing historical background that involves Europe and Asia .

In this article, we take a closer look at the origins of African textiles, which date back to the 17th century, and how the colonial and industrial revolutions influenced modern African fashion.

Conclusion: The origin of African fabric is "Javanese batik technique"

The wax print we call "African fabric" originated in 1893 when fabric produced in Java using a wax resist dyeing technique was brought to Africa .

However, the path to this point is a complex and fascinating one, involving the European Industrial Revolution, Dutch domination of Indonesia, and the development of the market by Scottish merchants.

17th century: Import of fabrics from Europe begins

Back in the 17th century, Alfert Dapper's book "Description of Africa" ​​states that Africa began importing fabrics from Europe in the 17th century .

This trade was called "Inturica" ​​(India to Africa), and large quantities of Madras checks and hand-printed fabrics were transported to Africa. What is interesting is the complex route that involved cotton fabrics being produced in India, transported to England and France, and then produced as Indian chintz .

Why via Europe?

At the time, the European powers engaged in "triangular trade," procuring raw materials cheaply through their colonial rule, then processing them in their own countries and selling them at a higher price. This structure would later become the foundation for the birth of African textiles.

18th century: The Industrial Revolution ushered in the era of mass production

At the end of the 18th century, the Industrial Revolution brought about a dramatic change in fabric production.

Source: Wikipedia

Furthermore, the advent of steamships dramatically reduced travel times between Europe, Africa, and Asia, spurring intercontinental trade and fueling the explosive growth of the textile industry.

19th century: Spread of European culture by missionaries

In the 19th century, Protestant missionaries began their missionary work in Africa, teaching African women sewing techniques in addition to their religion.

Thin European fabrics became popular here, and European dress codes quickly spread, laying the foundation for what would later be integrated with African fashion culture.

Java: Dutch Ambition and Batik Technique

1816: The Dutch return Java to the Philippines

When Java was returned to the Netherlands in 1816, Dutch companies sought to gain market share by developing new products incorporating Asian tastes .

In 1830, the Harlem Cotton Company was awarded the monopoly on Indonesian textile exports. The following companies subsequently entered the market:

• 1834 : Previnaire & Wilson
• 1846 : PF van Vlissingen (now Frisco)

Introduction of wax resist dyeing technology and defeat in Java

Dutch companies aimed to gain popularity among the elite class of Java by using techniques such as " a dye-resistant technique using melted wax " and "hand-drawn motifs on visible parts and the lining."

However, they were unable to compete with the authentic Javanese batik dyeing, and the Dutch company, which had made a huge investment, was forced to look for a new market.

1893: Introduced to Africa and becomes a huge hit

The insight of a Scottish merchant

As Dutch companies struggle with excess inventory, Scottish merchant Ebenezer Brown Fleming receives important information.

In 1893, the first batik-dyed fabric made in a Dutch factory was delivered to Africa , marking the birth of "African fabric."

Why was it such a big hit in Africa?

Wax printing failed in Java, but it has exploded in popularity in Africa for three reasons:

1. The colorful and bold patterns match the African aesthetic.
2. The wax coating made it durable and washable , making it suitable for the African climate.
3. There was already a desire and trust for European fabrics

This is how "African fabric" was born, a fusion of European technology, Asian design, and African culture.

Summary: A cultural icon with a complex history

When you hear the term "African fabric," you may imagine a traditional culture produced in Africa, but in reality, it was born from a complex combination of the following elements:

Today, this "African fabric" has become a symbol of African identity, especially in West Africa. After a complicated history during the colonial period, African people have adopted and elevated it as part of their own culture.

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